Biggest Surf in 30 Years!

By David Powdrell

So here’s the deal…. three seasoned local big-wave surfers independently told me that the surf [Thursday] was the biggest in thirty years for Carpinteria! Those were bold statements but based on my hike between Rincon and the Carpinteria Salt Marsh and my years here, I think those three surfers were spot on.

Waves seem to come in slow motion when the surf gets this big. They’re awesome and beautiful.

The energy among the people watching the surf was electric. There’s just something about witnessing Mother Nature when she kicks up her heels.

Emily decided to plop down and paint. Big wave surfer Spencer took his son for a ride on the bluffs. The Carp locals were in full force on the cliffs with cell phones firing away. The Carp pier took a pounding. The hardcore big-wave surfers kept their eye on the surf as the waves were exploding on the reef. 

Not many people surfed [Thursday], but that’s okay. It was an opportunity for all of us to get outdoors and take in the salt air.


Written by bigwavedave

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