I have a 1960's roof (2x6's) and at least a couple layers of shingles. Can I put a new layer of shingles on
and call it good, or do I need to tear off all the old and what kind of cost am I looking at?
COMMENT 319252
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2012-09-13 08:48 AM |
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Hire a roofer and request a firm estimate. If actual costs exceed the estimate negotiate who is to assume responsibility for that. If you had to what you did you have not business taking this on as a DIY project.
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COMMENT 319254
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2012-09-13 08:50 AM |
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A "layover" as it's called can be done for cost-saving reasons and may work better in a climate like we have here in SB versus the rainier Pacific Northwest. There are risks of leakage, though, most pronounced around flashing. A reputable roofer should give you the honest brnefits/risks of a layover versus a full new roof job.
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COMMENT 319257
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2012-09-13 08:59 AM |
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If the roof is that old its 50 years old, patchwork might be cheaper but will cost you more in the long run. Get a new roof. Depending on the size of your house, my guess would be between $10-$20k (20 on the high side but I don't know anything about your house).
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COMMENT 319268
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2012-09-13 09:09 AM |
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New shingles, tear down of old, some repair (for sure) figure $250 - 350 a square (10'x10' area). More if your house is a two story or has a steep pitch.
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COMMENT 319303
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2012-09-13 09:58 AM |
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You might find, as I did, that some of the wooden roof under the shingles needs replacing. I vote to tear it off and start over.
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COMMENT 319309
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2012-09-13 10:16 AM |
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It's called, pickup the phone and get three quotes from 3 licensed companies. Duhh.
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COMMENT 319312
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2012-09-13 10:18 AM |
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You would need to know how many layers are up there. When you know that...call the county and inquire as to the building code. (or; ask here of course...) Then; assuming that all the structural elements (sheathing and 2x6's etc) are solid...and the code allows it...no reason why you couldn't do a layover. Not the best solution of course. It's so easy though to do a layover. No alignment issues; no snapping chalk lines...just use the old layer as a guide. I did my roof that way 20 plus years ago and it's one of the best looking roofs in the neighborhood. And; it's never leaked.
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COMMENT 319320
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2012-09-13 10:33 AM |
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Rule of thumb--3 layers of shingles in the limit. I think it's a weight and structural issue.
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COMMENT 319326
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2012-09-13 10:42 AM |
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Just curious, what made you opt for anonymous posting feedback instead of getting three or more professional roofing inspections and recommendations?
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COMMENT 319336
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2012-09-13 11:07 AM |
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326, because I like edhat, value people's input and I don't plan on actually reroofing in the immediate future. Plus, I think it makes people's day when they get to share knowledge and help another human. It does open you up to the negative commenters, but I just conclude that maybe it made their day better too getting to blow off steam, like 309... haha.
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COMMENT 319342
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2012-09-13 11:15 AM |
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Wow you're gonna trust strangers on the Internet with a huge decision like roof construction on your home? Hire a roofer to inspect it and give you a professional opinion.
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COMMENT 319356
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2012-09-13 11:40 AM |
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I agree with 336. Whenever I have an important decision to make, I get information and feedback from: 1. Friends and Edhat users who have relevant info/experience. 2. The internet. 3. Professionals/contractors. Once I have that knowledge base, I'm equipped to make a decision (and also know when someone isn't being honest).
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COMMENT 319361
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2012-09-13 11:50 AM |
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General rule of thumb is 2 covers then start over due to weight concerns even if there are no leaks. Depends on the roofing material and structure, of course. Ask a pro. You should also consider the flammability of your existing material. It could be considerably safer to put on a new roof using fire-resistant materials that didn't exist back in the day. Again, ask a pro.
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COMMENT 319464
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2012-09-13 02:57 PM |
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Like others have said, max 2 or 3 underlayers to limit total weight. If you re-roof, beware contract wording which allows replacement of "damaged" wood (sheathing, rafters, etc) without bidding or estimates - if you have a lot of termite damge you could be looking at a big surprise! When I re-roofed I called my home insurance agent to see if new fire resistant shingles (metal or composite) would earn a rate decrease over my existing wood shakes. I was surprised, they (State Farm) said because incident rate for fires was so low, I would not earn deduction, instead they rewarded my efforts for fire safety with a rate INCREASE - because the replacement value of the house was now higher than before (with the old shakes).....
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COMMENT 319584
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2012-09-13 06:26 PM |
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Why'd you say 2x6's? Isn't it 2x4 trusses with 1x6 skip/spaced sheathing?
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COMMENT 319634
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2012-09-13 08:09 PM |
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In addition to the added weight, installing shingle "over" an existing roof is going to cause stress on the new shingles as they will want to take the form of the uneven roof below. Therefore, your new roof will not last as long. When you "tear off", you are able to change any dry rot and/or termite damaged wood. If your first layer is a wood shingle, be prepared to pay for solid sheathing (OSB, or CDX plywood), this flat roof deck is required and will maximize the life of your roof. Gabriel Angeles Angeles Roofing
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FLICKA
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2012-09-14 07:45 AM |
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I think asking for input on Edhat is a great idea for any situation. You hear the experience of others, it's research. Sure, you call in the experts for the actual job but you have already learned alot from others.
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COMMENT 319727
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2012-09-14 08:11 AM |
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Putting down a 3rd or 4th layer is a cheap shot trick of house flippers for the most part. A slightly leaky (or just plain ugly) but smooth and structurally sound roof surface over solid trusses and lath or sheathing can easily take a second layer of shingles quite well, but the 3rd or 4th layer will rarely look decent over time and will violate code in many places. Never shingle over shake - it will look bad no matter how well it is done. never shingle over wood shingles that are starting to cup or split even a little bit as they will eventually get worse and ripple to shingles on top of them leading to leaks and cheesy appearance.
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COMMENT 319797
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2012-09-14 09:33 AM |
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Speaking of roofs... I've been looking to put an awning over my back door. Aluminium is my first choice but would also consider the heavy sail cloth. However, I can't find anybody in town who actually makes and/or installs these! Anybody have any suggestions???
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COMMENT 319807
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2012-09-14 09:47 AM |
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Re: Sail cloth. Cachalot Canvas is a local business that has been around for decades. Very reasonable pricing,quick service, and my canvas awnings have been up for 5 years with no fading/no ripping/no problems. Unusual spelling...805-967-7599
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COMMENT 319843
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2012-09-14 10:25 AM |
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The building code allows for one re-roof and then you must strip the previous coverings, make repairs and upgrade as necessary before a new roof covering is applied. If you are looking for a long-term solution, metal roofing is a very good option.
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COMMENT 319938
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2012-09-14 12:33 PM |
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Thanks so much, 807. I would've never thought just to look up "cloth". I'll give them a call.
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COMMENT 320201
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2012-09-14 08:00 PM |
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I'm not a roofer, but I am a licensed General Contractor. My suggestion would be to tear off what is there and start fresh. Every time. There are usually a few problems with the skip sheathing lumber underneath (if that is how it was built), and they will not be seen or dealt with when the old shingles are left in place. These will cause leaks in your new roof when someone walks there and the wood flexes, fracturing the shingle. The added cost of the tearoff is not very much, and is well worth the value. My belief is that it is wrong to degrade the housing stock in our community by taking shortcuts such as a layover. I understand family budgets and such, but I see too much of this 'cheap out' attitude nowadays with no long term concern for the quality of the places we call home.
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