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WINE

Mark Liberts Rates Vino
updated: Jun 17, 2012, 9:23 AM

By Marc Liberts

Sauvignon Blanc - Santa Barbara & Beyond By Marc Liberts June 08, 2012

I was invited to attend a comprehensive Savignon Blanc tasting in the Santa Ynez Valley with a number of winemakers and industry professionals. The objective was to blind taste test two dozen examples of Sauvignon Blanc wines from local and international producers so that we could compare and contrast the wines and the winemaking styles.

Sauvignon Blanc grows well in Santa Barbara County - particularly in the Santa Ynez Valley and Happy Canyon. For the past two decades, wineries such as Brander, Beckmen, Margerum, and others have helped perfect both the cultivation and production of Sauvignon Blanc grapes and wine.

Sauvignon Blanc probably originated in Bordeaux, and is most famous as the white grape of Bordeaux wines. In Bordeaux, it is common to blend Sauvignon Blanc with Semillon and age the wine in oak for a significant period of wine. Sauvignon Blanc is also famous as an important white wine grape from the Loire Valley. The limestone soils of the Loire Valley help the grape express its best characteristics. In the Loire Valley, Sauvignon Blanc is rarely blended, and usually not aged in oak. Some well known examples from the Loire Valley are Sancerre and Pouilly- Fumé. Sauvignon Blanc has also been successfully produced in California, New Zealand, and Chile.

Prior to the tasting, I went to Costco to buy a number of Sauvignon Blanc wines from California and New Zealand to throw into the mix. All the wines I brought were purchased for under $12.00, and all of my wines performed well. Overall, any Sauvignon Blanc aficionado would have been satisfied or impressed with most of the wines we tasted. The Santa Barbara County wines did well in comparison to their counterparts from France and beyond. Below are my notes and reviews of the wines we tasted.

1. 2010 KENWOOD VINEYARDS, SONOMA COUNTY, SAUVIGNON BLANC - Light grass on the nose and dry and thin on the palate. Uninspiring - 85 points.

2. 2011 SANCERRE, CHAVIGNON "LES COMTESSE", PAUL THOMAS - Subtle perfume on the nose with enticing sour lime, acidity and sparkling minerality. Appealing - 91 points.

3. 2010 SANCERRE, LES MONTES DAMNES, FRANCOIS COTAT - Quiet nose with candied fruit, almonds, nuts, and apples on the palate. Nice balance. Pretty - 90 points.

4. 2011 BRANDER VINEYARD, SAUVIGNON BLANC, MESA VERDE VINEYARD, SANTA YNEZ VALLEY - Grassy up front with tropical fruit, guava, jalapeno, and spice on the palate. Strong - 88 points.

5. 2010 KIM CRAWFORD, MARLBOROUGH, SAUVIGNON BLANC - Stinky gooseberries on the nose with grassy lime and citrus on the palate with hints of canned asparagus. Workable - 87 points.

6. 2010 SANCERRE, DOMAINE ANDRE VATAN, LES CHARMES - Delicate flowers on the nose with a flat boring palate. Nothing on the back end. Uninspiring - 84 points.

7. 2011 BRANDER VINEYARD, SAUVIGNON BLANC, SANTA YNEZ VALLEY, AU NATUREL - Plush and minerally nose with grapefruit and acid on the palate with a stingy acidic finish. Thoughtful - 87 points.

8. 2011 RUSACK, SANTA BARBARA COUNTY, SAUVIGNON BLANC - Quiet nose with acid and simple citrus fruit on the palate. Whatever - 84 points.

9. 2010 STAR LANE VINEYARD, SAUVIGNON BLANC, HAPPY CANYON OF SANTA BARBARA - Stinky grassy nose with a soft fruit and an uninspiring finish. Meh - 85 points.

10. 2011 ST. SUPERY, NAPA VALLEY, SAUVIGNON BLANC - Very grassy on the nose and palate. Guava and nectar on the mid-palate and finish. Cool - 89 points.

11. 2009 BECKMEN VINEYARDS 2009 PURISIMA MOUNTAIN VINEYARD, SAUVIGNON BLANC, SANTA YNEZ VALLEY - Soft nose. Round and balanced on the palate. Nice honey and some oak present. Sublime - 87 points.

12. 2010 STORM SAUVIGNON BLANC, SANTA YNEZ VALLEY - Cement and wet rocks on the nose with nice minerality and gooseberries on the palate. Strong finish. Bold - 89 points.

13. 2010 SANTA BARBARA WINERY SAUVIGNON BLANC, SANTA YNEZ VALLEY - Tropics on the nose, especially bananas. Big acid and tropicals on the palate. Sunny - 86 points.

14, 2010 MOUNT NELSON SAUVIGNON BLANC, MARLBOROUGH - Very grassy on the nose and palate. Hints of radishes, peppers and bold flavors on the palate. Commanding - 88 points.

15. 2010 BECKMEN VINEYARDS, ESTATE SAUVIGNON BLANC, SANTA YNEZ VALLEY - Grassy nose with nice balance, good fruit, and classic lines. Classic - 90 points.

16. 2010 SANCERRE, TERROIRS, DOMAINE SYLVAIN BAILLY - Light fruit on the nose and palate with pretty minerality and nice acidity. Rocks - 90 points.

17. 2011 STAR LANE, SAUVIGNON BLANC, SANTA YNEZ VALLEY - Good earthy loamy sweaty notes with nice fruit and strong character. Punky - 88 points.

18. 2011 BRANDER, SAUVIGNON BLANC, SANTA YNEZ VALLEY - Light grass and fruit on the nose and palate. Has all the components of classic Sauvignon Blanc. Expected - 86 points.

19. 2011 BABCOCK, SAUVIGNON BLANC, ESTATE GROWN - Crushed rocks and spices on the palate. Wet cement and matches on the palate with fruit, hints of menthol and eucalyptus. Zingy - 89 points.

20. 2008 THE PARING, WHITE WINE - Pretty tropical fruit and oak on the nose. Good balance with toasty hazelnuts, caramel, and nice spice. Wow - 93 points.

21. 2010 CAKEBREAD CELLARS, NAPA VALLEY, SAUVIGNON BLANC - Nice fruit on the nose with decent citrus and hints of lemon pepper. Light finish. Adequate - 86 points.

22. 2011 FERRARI-CARANO, FUME BLANC, SAUVIGNON BLANC, SONOMA COUNTY - Tropicals on the nose and palate with grapefruit and grass on the finish. Tangy - 86 points.

23. 2010 MARGERUM, SYBARITE SAUVIGNON BLANC, HAPPY CANYON OF SANTA BARBARA - Light nose with spices and herbs on the palate. Tropical fruit and hints of ripe cantaloupe on the palate with nice acid. Tangy - 89 points.

24. 2011 ROCK HOLLOW, SAUVIGNON BLANC, SANTA BARBARA COUNTY - Tropical fruit with citrus on the nose and palate. Pretty with nice acid and passionfruit. Racy - 90 points.

25. 2010 BRANDER, SAVIGNON BLANC, PURISIMA MOUNTAIN, SANTA YNEZ VALLEY - Nice minerality with a hint of menthol and citrus fruit. Nice heft. Nymph - 90 points.

FIRST PLACE:

#1 - 2008 THE PARING, WHITE WINE - I'm a sucker for good wine that is well aged.

SECOND PLACE: #2 - 2010 BRANDER, SAVIGNON BLANC, PURISIMA MOUNTAIN, SANTA YNEZ VALLEY

THIRD PLACE: #3 - SANCERRE, CHAVIGNON "LES COMTESSE", PAUL THOMAS

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