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TRAVEL

Onward to Michigan
updated: Oct 01, 2011, 8:45 AM

By McSeas

I see that some GOP Big Cheeses held a meeting on Mackinac Island this week. Now I can happily say I've been there, and I can understand their choice, if not their philosophies. But let's take it from the bottom (of Michigan).

The freeway from Chicago to Ann Arbor, MI circles the bottom of big and beautiful Lake Michigan, landing you in perhaps the crown of Michigan, the University of Michigan at Ann Arbor. Ann Arbor looks like a very fine, very normal American by-gawd city, although it appears less ethnic than normal to a Californian. Lots of Asians, like any other U.S. college town, but the prevailing skin color is Ruddy Farm. You notice things like that when visiting from the melting pot that is Southern California. It's an interesting change.

The gem on the crown is the University of Michigan, home of the famous football Wolverines, some world-class marching bands and, with Wisconsin and California, top-drawer academics in state-run schools.

It's easy to understand the football program's priorities. Professor Google tells us that wolverines are "the largest land-dwelling species of the family Mustelidae (weasels). It is a stocky and muscular carnivore, more closely resembling a small bear than other mustelids. The wolverine has a reputation for ferocity and strength out of proportion to its size, with the documented ability to kill prey many times its size."

Be advised, Wisconsin Badgers.

UM is a beautiful, traditional campus of stone and brick. In the middle is a large square of buildings that is divided diagonally by a broad walkway, and strolling through is utterly pleasant (given fair weather, of course; there's the other Michigan, the winter one). We bought some postcards and a blue and gold T- shirt, and kept walking.

Our Peace Corps friend, Mike Hinken is a writing teacher there, and he took us to a perfect dinner at Zingerman's Deli (It's much more than a deli and the owner isn't named Zingerman). The joint was swamped with happy diners, probably still in party mode following the previous day's defeat of Notre Dame in football.

One of my UCSB English professors (emeritus), Homer Swander, got his PhD at U of M years ago and taught there for a time. He once said, "There's no place like Ann Arbor on a football Saturday."

We toured the Real World Michigan on our way north. A middle-class city in middle America, Midland, MI, mid-land, just east of the middle of the state. While it's a light-industry city, thanks to the super-successful Dow family, it seems to be surviving, probably thanks to Dow -- Dow Corning Corp./Dow Chemical Co, Dow

This and Dow That on every hand.

Spousie's Aunt Dolores, 92, Phi Beta Kappa in English at Dartmouth 70 years ago, has lived in Midland her whole adult life, raising five children, all educated and successful. Her husband was a chemical engineer for Dow for many years. The Dow enterprise was founded in Midland in 1897, and has been good for the town ever since.

We enjoyed the flavor and the feel, of a solidly American, old-fashioned, pleasant and attractive town of 42,000, complete with ice cream shop, high school football field, tree-lined streets, peace and quiet, and a stunning park, Dow Gardens. The park is named, of course, after the homestead on the edge of town established by the founding Dow family, Herbert H. and Grace A. Dow.

There are more than 70 parks in Midland (true!), but this one may actually be in a class by itself. It seems to have a bit of everything on its 110 acres, its sub-parks descriptively named Estate Garden, Stream Walk, Color Garden, Pineside, and the Exploration and Children's Garden. We loved it. How could we not?

Sculptures in the park can get quite elaborate, like these fake "fish" in a real pond.

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Midland's top-flight Dow Park is highlighted here, and near by sculptures like this flower.

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Onward, deeper into the heart and maybe mind of Middle America.

 

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