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Getting Big Air
updated: Jan 25, 2010, 6:19 AM
By David Powdrell
The young bucks riding really light surfboards are redefining the sport of surfing. And getting big air is a part of the new revolution.
The dynamics of speed, angle, wave size and probably a myriad of other variables come into play simultaneously and within a split second, the surfer is air bound.
I did a little research on the mechanics of getting air while surfing but found nothing on the Internet. A guy like Stephen Hawking could probably rattle off the equation without much thought but just for fun I thought I'd take a stab at it. Here's my completely unfounded, unproven wild hair guess:
h = W x a x A (divided by)
c/y
h=height, W=wave size, a=angle with which the surfer is riding, A=steepness of the wave c=speed with which the surfer is riding and y is the number of years the surfer has been surfing. But I'm just making all this up.
As a marginal surf photographer, I can attest that snapping a clean focused image at the same instant is frankly, just dumb luck. The trick is taking lots and lots of photos of really good surfers riding really fast waves really well.
I guess the equation for getting the focused photograph looks something like:
p = W x a x A x 10,350
c/y
p=focused photograph
Here are a few of photos I've snapped through the years. Hope you enjoy them.
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