ROGER DODGER
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2011-02-08 05:54 AM |
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I love that one where it looks like the guy doesn't know his surfboard is gone Great pictures.
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THE BARRON
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2011-02-08 06:41 AM |
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Amazing images. What's the sensation on the leg as the board gets sucked over the falls and you are going in the opposite direction? That leash has to stop at some point. How often does the surfer get nailed hard by the board? Used to surf strictly long boards way back in the day (no leashes), and we'd just kick it out of the way as the wave was closing out. Lots of strong & sustained ocean swimming to the beach or rocks, but few, if any, injuries to us. The boards were another story :-)
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COMMENT 143897P
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2011-02-08 08:14 AM |
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WOW.........these are sweet!
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COMMENT 143911P
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2011-02-08 08:34 AM |
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Cowabunga!
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COMMENT 143912
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2011-02-08 08:36 AM |
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Not a single one of these is a wipeout, despite the pretentious dictionary definitions . . . all these pictures show surfers kicking out at the end of a wave. There is a big difference.
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COMMENT 143911P
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2011-02-08 08:38 AM |
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912...no coffee yet this a.m.?
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COMMENT 143915
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2011-02-08 08:42 AM |
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912 - I'd disagree. There are a few kickouts in the bunch, but most look like botched airs. Rincon Classic contestants going for broke!
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COMMENT 143912
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2011-02-08 09:03 AM |
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915: I agree, but a botched air in place of a kickout is what stands for a kickout these days, more's the pity. Either way not wipeouts as the poster stated. 914: True surfers don't drink coffee. It's just about accuracy in the media. I write to newspapers about grammatical errors, too.
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COMMENT 143926
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2011-02-08 09:06 AM |
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Wonderful pictures! Thanks!!
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COMMENT 143897P
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2011-02-08 09:53 AM |
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Great photos David. Very exciting no matter what it's called. I think I'll go get a cup of dark roast.
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POWDRELL
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2011-02-08 10:07 AM |
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I've got an idea.....let's call these botched air attempts that turned into wipeouts. In the scheme of the universe, it's really not a big deal. They're all great surfers pushing their limits.
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COMMENT 143911P
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2011-02-08 11:24 AM |
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@924...don't stop there, how about FireMAN, policeMAN, or mailMAN?
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COMMENT 144306P
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2011-02-09 09:26 AM |
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Great photos! I have the same questions as The Barron - anyone have an answer? I've been curious about this for a while. I've never surfed (not a strong enough swimmer to risk it).
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POWDRELL
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2011-02-09 12:04 PM |
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144306 and The Barron: The leash was originally made of surgical tubing and referred to sometimes as "kook cords" in the early 1970's. These would snap the board back pretty abruptly. (Famous wetsuit pioneer Jack O'Neill lost an eye while experimenting with a survival tubing leash. See link ). Leashes are now made from urethane which holds a better stretch with less snap. Leashes come in different lengths depending on the wave size. Biggers waves = longer leashes. Surfers get nailed by their boards from time to time. Comes with the territory. Mi amigo Johnny got 22 stitches to the forehead last week at Little Rincon. He'll be back in the water as soon as it's safe for him to do so. Hope that helps.
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